Norvège

There are two Norways, and both are worth the journey.

The winter one: Tromsø and the Lyngen Alps, hunting the northern lights in a small group, dog sledding, reindeer, fish fresh out of 4-degree water. You dress like an onion, you slow down, you watch the sky.

And the summer one: the midnight sun over the Lofoten islands, fjords to paddle in a kayak, falu-red fishing villages resting on the water.

Élyne travelled there in the middle of the Arctic winter: tested itineraries, local contacts in her pocket, lived-in advice.